The European election results in the UK are being commonly classified as an enormous victory for the Brexit Party. Which is regrettably true, but not quite the whole truth.
If you were to take a list of the numbers of MEPs each party got :-
Party
MEPs
The Brexit Party
29
Liberal Democrat
16
Labour
10
Green
7
You can see that if the next three parties were to hold a pact, they could outvote the Brexiteers every day and twice on every Sunday. Interestingly enough, whilst the Brexit party got 5,248,533 votes, the petition to revoke Article 50 got 6,085,584.
Which seems to indicate that whilst Brexit is the largest ‘party’ in the European elections, the remainers have actually got a slim majority!
Everyone else does a list of photography tips, so why shouldn’t I? No reason at all, so here goes :-
#0: Do It Slower
Digital photography makes making an image so quick and easy that it is too tempting to just shoot and worry about what is good later. Not much room for carefully planning and taking your time.
A good half of the bad images I make are because I didn’t slow down.
#1: Rules Are There For A Reason
“Rules are made to be broken” goes the facile saying. And there’s an element of truth to it, but the rules of composition are there for a reason.
For tens of thousands of years, artists have been coming up the rules of composition – the rule of thirds, the golden ratio, leading lines and curves, negative space, etc. There’s a reason why they exist – they work.
And don’t imagine that because photography is different that the rules don’t apply – it isn’t that different.
That is not to say rules should not be broken, but that every time you break the rules, you should be able to say why. And preferably with something better than “just because”.
#2: Gear is Good; Gear is Bad
There is a kind of photographer who buys the very latest gear all of the time; there is a kind of photographer who sticks to the camera they bought 10 years ago.
Neither is right nor wrong. New gear can make technical improvements to the produced image but will never improve the artistic quality.
#3: Shoot RAW
There is of course a temptation to just shoot jpeg especially as that is how all our images end up; why not let the camera do all the hard work? But there are a whole rafter of reasons why you should shoot raw :-
You can change your mind with raw – I mostly shoot black and white, and I can’t add colour back in afterwards. You can “fix” the exposure far more with raw than with jpeg.
Because the process of developing raw into jpeg takes time, you are free to spend extra time improving the final image. That time often makes the difference between a casual snapshot and something that goes beyond that.
#4: Criticism Is Good And Bad
We often seek confirmation that some of our images are good and that we aren’t wasting our time. Nothing wrong with that, and any constructive criticism can be good.
But we need to be wary of what is being judged, because it is rarely purely about whether an image is good or bad. For example, I often upload my better images to EyeEm where there are essentially two different “criticisms” :-
Likes. People click that like button because they like the image; a lack of likes doesn’t necessarily show that an image is bad. Popular photographers get more likes than unpopular photographers, but that doesn’t necessarily mean their images are better.
Being added to the market. That means your picture is sell-able not that it is good. And if an image doesn’t get added, it means that it isn’t sell-able. Just that.
In the end, an image is only good if it sings to you. And if it sings to you, then it doesn’t matter what anybody else thinks.
Unless of course you are not aiming for “good” but “sell-able” or “likeable”.
#5: Practice
Musicians practice every day for hours; and photographers have to practice too. Learning the technical aspect of the camera is the least of it.
Practice with the camera; practice without it – practice looking for images on your daily commute. Get your eye into the habit of looking for compositions even in the most boring sights that you see every day.
So earlier today, I had a need to mount a disk image from a virtual machine on the host, and discovered a “new” method before remembering I’d made notes on this in the past. So I’m recording the details in the probably vain hope that I’ll remember this post in the future.
The first thing to do is to add an option to include partition support in the relevant kernel module, which I’ve done by adding a line to /etc/modprobe.d/etc-modules-parameters.conf :-
options nbd max_part=63
The next step is to load the module:
# modprobe nbd
The next is to use a Qemu tool to connect a disk image to a network block device :-
All done! Except for un-mounting it and finally disconnecting the network block device :-
# umount /mnt
# ls /dev/nbd0*
/dev/nbd0 /dev/nbd0p1 /dev/nbd0p2 /dev/nbd0p3
# qemu-nbd -d /dev/nbd0
/dev/nbd0 disconnected
# ls /dev/nbd0*
/dev/nbd0
The trickiest part is the qemu-nbd command (so not very tricky at all).
The “-r” option specifies that the disk image should be connected read-only, which seems to be sensible when you’re working with a disk image that “belongs” to another machine. Obviously if you need to write to the disk image then you should drop the “-r” (but consider cloning or taking a snapshot).
The “-c” option connects the disk image to a specific device and the “-d” option disconnects the specific device.
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